What is the difference between dark walnut and jacobean

Unfortunately the yellow pops out no matter what. Jacobean or Dark walnut floor Or mix with Ebony! Minwax Espresso oil-based stain for hardwood floors. Jacobean, Dark Walnut or Coffee Brown. We bought a tiny bungalow. The floors were in awful condition. Someone suggested to us to use Minwax Dark Walnut to hide the stains, etc. I've done three coats on the bedrooms with a coat of poly, and will be going back with more poly.

Sorry, no pics of those yet, but here is a pic of the living room, with just one coat of Dark Walnut stain on it. In MinWax you may try Provincial. Brown always has a bit of red in it and you are staining over red oak so a hint will come though. That looks like a nice dark color. I doubt the builder will do more than one coat of any color.

Does anyone have experience with mixing 2 Minwax colors? Try mixing the two, just remember the formula for your contractor. Just like GiuseppeM, if it is not too much to ask, can we see a close up of the grain? Do you have oak and also did your floor person use any special technique on your floors?

Ie "water popping"? I will take pictures and try to post them tonight or tomorrow. Yes, it is oak wood. I will say that the Jacobean stain in the kitchen is NOT uniform. You'll see when I post close-ups that the grain is very visible, but we wanted a visible grain. With the Dark Walnut in the living room, the grain is less visible, but probably because the LR floors are 50 years old and the kitchen floor is brand new-- so different wood. However, the flooring guy did samples for us of the Jacobean and the Dark Walnut both with and without water popping.

As I said, we wanted a visible grain, but if you are looking for something more uniform, the water popping would probably work better for you. Hopefully, btw the two, one of them will work for me.

I read online that Dura Seal was a great brand and asked the floor guy to buy a couple samples of their stain. The dark one is called Coffee Brown 1 coat and the lighter one is called Spicy Brown 2 coats of stain. They both have 1 coat of water based finish and the floor was sanded with The other color that you see on the right is Cherry.

Dura Seal is definitely a better brand than Minwax, the color is richer and the oak absorbed it more evenly. Also you can apply multiple coats of stain, while Minwax contains a finish in it so the second coat never gets absorbed properly. They both look great. I know you mentioned the "water popping" but are those final floors are stained without water popping? Guiseppe, What did you decide to go with? That duraseal color def. The only place I did tile is the foyer and bathrooms!

January 10, Always have your floor finisher put sample options on the floor. It is important that you see your stain choice on the floor and wood itself. These are the basic colors offered, but blending is a great way to go custom A custom blend is easy to do.

You should not be charged extra for this. Dark wood is in!! Variation is a great feature of your floor, stain will effect this aspect.

Remember that scratches and dust show extra with on darker stained floors. Maintenance is more difficult with darker colors. Love my floors, but they are hard to keep looking good. Use a premium stain, such as Minwax. You will also want to use a very high grade finish such as Polo-plaz. Great look on a semi gloss floor, plus increased durability. Minwax Golden Pecan. We chose to experiment with this stain color because of its mid-range tint with red undertones.

The pine board looked the least natural with this stain. Poplar looked a little bit like watermelon. Birch did surprisingly well and the oaks were naturals. Naturals in a very red way. Minwax Golden Oak. This is another mid-range stain color, but with a more neutral base undertone. Instead of the wood grains picking up redness, you can see they all went a very neutral brown.

There is very little difference between the conditioned and unconditioned white and red oaks, but the other three definitely benefited from the pre-stain conditioner. Minwax Jacobean. The first of the dark stains we tried was also the more neutral in tone. It delivered rich, dark brown tones. Every wood species benefitted greatly from the conditioner with this stain. The pine turned more gray than anything. Minwax Dark Walnut. Last, is the redder of the two dark stains we experimented with.

Although, no red came through with the pine at all. In fact, it looked almost pinky gray. The other woods took the stain well, with more redness coming out of the conditioned sides of the boards. The green in the Poplar board went to an almost black, like in the Jacobean stain—very stunning.

Lastly, we thought it would be beneficial to see all the same wood type with different stains in one picture. Like I said, I wish we could do 15 more of these! But I hope this is helpful. I think each wood species looked great with some stains and subpar with others.

I loved pine with the lights and darks, but not the medium stains. Birch rocked Simply White and Golden Oak. Poplar looked awesome in almost every one except the Golden Pecan. The top flat surfaces were a disaster, but the legs cleaned up just fine and have a lovely patina.

Thank you so much for your post, it helped my husband and I out immensely after going back and forth to the hardware store to get samples of stain!

Thank you for this helpful post! I was wondering how the oak would look with a stain — now I have a better idea! Thanks for this post. This is so helpful!! But then there is the world of bleaching! Any cherry or red furniture I bleach before doing all the other steps. I thought this this was the most helpful, comprehensive site for wood floor stains. Thanks so much!! What about bleaching the red oak first then applying the simply white stain?

Would that eliminate the pink? Would it be too white going that route? It very much like mixing paint for the right shade…begin light and add small amounts of the darker. Also keep in mind it will look different when it dries, so go easy. Its far safer to do a light coat, let it dry, check it…and add another if needed, than to over do it and have to fix it or start over. This effort is sooo great! I am definitely sharing this post with my clients. Thanks for doing this, it really is beneficial!

This is an awesome resource, thank you! How many coats of stain did you put on the wood samples shown in the photos? I only wish you could have tested all of them. Not only did this help me decide on stains, it really helped me to better understand how different wood grains vary. Thank you! Loved this! I have made two wooden pieces for self use, and I had no clue how much FUN staining could be!

I only want to create more pieces, just so I can stain them, haha! My first go around I noticed an embarrassing amount of blotching from the stain.

I assumed it was the quality of wood. Second time, I purchased wood that was a bit higher quality a. Anyway, I think I just need to condition the boards… as you stated and provided evidence! This was so helpful for me, and my most amateur endeavors. Thank you for sharing! Hi, I have sanded an old pine dresser that was coated years ago in an orangy shellac. That is bland. However since the top gets plenty of use I put on a coat of varathene. And of course it is orange once again.

This is the BEST ever and so thorough! Especially learning about the wood conditioner. Thank you so much! Love this, thank you! Excellent resource. Also agree with comment about poly. We are building a house and trying to choose stains for maple cabinets and pine beams and French doors. We sampled Jacobean and dark walnut on pine and our samples came out much darker than yours. However, I noticed in your photos showing Dark Walnut and Jacobean, the pine samples for each color look much lighter than the same colors do in the photo of only pine boards with all of the colors.

In that picture, the last two look much darker. Is there yellow pine and white pine? Also, which wood would be most like maple? Thanks so much! I have debating about what the difference a primer or conditioner will make, this was a big help! I have a bit of a dilemma in that I have white oak floors in my newly renovated kitchen and original red Oak from on the rest of my main floor. Have you found one color stain that makes them similar?

Any help would be appreciated. I would like to see an experiment in reducing contrast—both grain and defects, such as nail holes and gaps—to produce an attractive even dark tone. If your floor is going to look blotchy, damaged, or like a wild animal skin, better to not even refinish. The white oak looks even, but the red oak looks like zebra stripes—although the dark walnut showed less contrast than the jacobean. Also, professional pros the ones who take their time to listen to you and do the job right always water-pop the wood when using dark stains.

Is the Minwax conditioner a substitute for water-popping? Thank you so much. This was very helpful and appreciative. Thank you so, so much for this exercise. It will really help me to choose the right product for the wood floor of my future house. Never saw this before. This was the best article on staining I have ever seen.

Thank you for taking the time to do it. It helped me tremendously! Love this post. Super helpful! I really love the Simply White and am considering using it on an antique mahogany piece.

What are your thoughts on this? Would it take that stain well? This is so beyond helpful! Curious how an oil based vs water based would affect the colors especially on the white oak. The effect can change not only from stain to stain, but from wood species to wood species and even from one board to another within the same wood species. Love this post!! Im looking for the perfect stain for my coffee table made of poplar. This was incredibly helpful!

Love your post! What color stain would you use to achieve a blonde look with Douglas fir? The Douglas fir has a orange tent I need to tone down.

Do you have any recommendations? Tough to know! Best bet is to cut a sample board into small pieces and do some tests until you find the right color. This is sososo helpful! I cannot thank you enough for doing this experiment and sharing it! I am limited on cabinet space so I am doing diy open shelves in our kitchen and I just knew your blog was the place to go for tips on mixing wood tones!

You guys did a fantastic job with this. This experiment has been a great help! They often do. You can get a matte finish polycrylic and that often causes the least amount of change.

What can be mixed with Dk Walnut penetrating stain, to bring out a touch of red. Using on pallet wood, probably pine as yellow seems prominent. Other wood possibility is oak. I want a matt black stain with no shine at all. Thanks a lot for all the help!

Perhaps someone could give me their opinions of what wood and stain to use with black iron pipe? I appreciate any thoughts on this. This is absolutely one helluva valuable test and comparison. I am restoring a significantly damaged Gunn barrister bookcase…. I want to thank you for your testing it was just what I needed. I was going to use quarter sawn white oak vs. From your testing I realized I can use the red oak since my stain although not as dark as the jacobean will make seeing the difference in white vs.

Red oak undetectable. Right now the jury is out regarding the pricing. Thanks again,. This is a wonderful write up. I found one of the photos through a google search but a whole S load of spam sites had the photo. It took me forever to find this site! Thank you for this post! Would you please share the technique you used on the simply white? I tried this on white oak and did not get the look you got but I want to achieve this!

Did you wipe off right away? Would the stain obscure more of the grain if left on more than 2 minutes? This is a great post and helped me decide which stain to use on the twin bed my husband is making for our son! Thank you. Thankyou for doing this! I am sanding a 18C vanity unit that is Chestnut.

Maybe Jacobean. Do you know how Chestnut stains? The wood is extremely dry. Need your advice. By the way, that article mentions Minwax Stain also. Could you please help me choose the right one? Appreciate your help :. Hi Maria! My suggestion would be to use a scrap piece of wood that is the same type that you want to treat, and test your different options. Just wanted to say thank you.

I wanted to know how well birch took stain. I had never used a pre-stain conditioner and also wanted to see the denefit of doing so. Your illustrations were fantastic and saved me from making a huge mistake. Thank you again for all the time you put into keeping the general public informed. So thorough. Ended up going with red oak and golden oak stain and the color is exactly as seen in person. Amazing photography as well. Thank you!!! What a great post! My first piece was an old white oak writing desk from the school where I teach that had been absued over the years.

I used Minwax Pickled Oak and it turned out gorgeous, for a first attempt. At the moment I am working on an old student desk made of white oak that I would like to stain in contrasting dark and light shades. I really like the Jacobean, yet what light stain would you suggest as contrast?

Thanks so much for your help and for this wonderful post! Thanks for doing this experiment and sharing! This was incredibly helpful. Very helpful post! Best practice would be to get a piece of walnut and do some tests. Really awesome post! Hardwood that has just been installed will not have any old finish that can have an affect on the way the gray stain is taken by the wood. Staining a floor gray is best to do so on a new floor rather than an existing floor.

What is Jacobean design? Jacobean Era architecture started in Great Britain during the last years of the 16th century and lasted until the midth century. It was a style based on the ideas of the Renaissance. Architecture focused on prodigy houses. Brick and stone were commonly used as construction materials.

How do you apply stain? The basic rule for getting good results with any wood stain is to apply a wet coat and wipe off the excess before it dries. You can use any tool — rag, brush, paint pad, roller or spray gun — to apply the stain.

You can even dip the object into stain or pour the stain onto the wood and spread it around. How do you use Prince Lionheart wipe warmer? Whats the difference between white and yellow Romex?